When, on occasion, I happened to examine the lower qualifying divisions of European football in a July newspaper, I always hone in on teams that hail from places that I have at least visited, if not lived in - Finnish teams for example. FC Sheriff fell into this category and when its name cropped up, I always willed it to progress to the main section of at least the Europa League (European football's second-string competition) - I made a promise to myself that should this club escape the snares of obscurity and come to these isles, I would go to see them.
This all stems from a journey I made to Moldova in 2005 - whilst I was living in Romania - in which I sojourned in the sliver of territory that is the breakaway land of Transdniestr (AKA Transnistria). It has a twilight existence,
de facto independent but recognised by no other country in the world, not even Russia, whose 'peacekeepers' ensure that this conflict remains frozen (as it extends the Kremlin's zone of influence, with a major military base in its 'Near Abroad). Only the other post-Soviet breakaway states of Abkhazia, South Ossetia and Nagorno-Karabakh, who are almost totally lacking in international recognition themselves, have accorded it the status of a state. I was only granted a three-hour visa such are the Ruritanian ways of this place, but it was ample time to visit the second city, Bendery and the capital, Tiraspol. If Moldova is the poorest country in Europe, than Transdniestr bids fair to be the poorest corner of the continent. 90% of the economy in this Soviet throwback is controlled by the Sheriff organisation, whose chief executive just so happens to be the son of the former long-term president, Igor Smirnov, who fell from grace from the Kremlin and thereby power in 2011 (though Smirnov's successor was elected, Freedom House still rates Transdniestr as one of the least free places in the world). Despite wishing to have nothing to with reintegration into Moldova, the only club of note, Sheriff Tiraspol, competes in the Moldovan league, thereby representing Moldova in European competition. Thanks to the vast sums pumped into the club to buy foreign players (to the detriment of ordinary Transdniestrians until 2011), Sheriff regularly wins the Moldovan championship. Transdniestr was rather touchy about photography of the stadium back in 2005, as it was a state asset. A group of Chinese tourists were arrested as spies for having their photograph taken outside (before later being released). I, however, snapped away from a moving car. This subterfuge and the sheer otherwordliness of Transdniestr fired my imagination about the club and my ardour to see them play.
That location was not at Newcastle United, but at the august surrounds of White Hart Lane. Tottenham Hotspur would rather have wished to have not played this match, believing their rightful berth is the Champions League, a competition they feel has been denied them in the past two seasons rather unjustly. But here they were and so was I.
There has been much controversy over a term to describe Jews that Spurs' fans have appropriated to break its negative power. There was a brief rendition fifty yards ahead of me on the approach to the ground, though to my fallible ears it sounded like 'Green Army' (though of course I knew what it was), raising the unlikely prospect of vocal Plymouth fans in this part of north London on a Thursday night. Inside the stadium, the chants were delineated and were a variety on a theme, a y-word theme. As they enunciated the single syllable version in union, it came across as quite sinister, which may cause problems should Tottenham play any team from Israel or Ajax (the latter is subjected to hissing from other fans in the Dutch league to signify the gas chambers, Ajax also having a long Jewish past). It's all highly ironic that, despite the Jewish heritage and owners, that Spurs were founded by a local Anglican priest as a Christian boys sports club.
Other songs proliferated. There was a sweet ditty about the love affair between Stefan Freund and the Lane faithful, along the lines of 'Land of Hope and Glory'. Feelings of a diametrically opposed kind surafced towards another ex-player, as Spurs fans desired to know why, in their opinion, Sol Campbell was a delicate piece of the female anatomy. The warnings on language affixed to the back of every seat fell on blind eyes. Even though he has just joined Arsenal, Mesut Ozil has joined the ranks of villainy, with his eyes criticised as off-set.
The seating rows, my section at least, were atrocious,
seemingly designed for a person no taller than 5”5’. Some on the aisle’s edges took to sitting
sidesaddle. When planted myself, my legs
were splayed widely apart and wedged.
The match was fairly dull for the first hour, with Brad
Friedel so bored he looked like he would take a throw-in. Sheriff parked the bus, with 90% of the play
in their half but they did have a few buccaneering counter-attacks thrown
in. Indeed, in the first half, they had
the three best chances. A wry laugh went
up when the stadium announcer at half-time asked the assembled crowd to look up
at the screens for the (Spurs’) highlights of the match to date. It last less than a minute. It was so enervating that the eight-year old
in front of me fell asleep in his father’s arms. One could well understand why Spurs were so
anaemic in front of goal in the Premier League.
Technically excellent with all their tippi-tappiness. Like Arsenal were when at Selhurst Park
(I was in attendance for the that Crystal
Palace match, which the
Gunners – eventually – won 2-0) but no cutting edge.
On 58 minutes, Andres Villas Boas was frustrated too and
substituted Paulinho, replacing him with Etienne Capoue. It paid almost instant dividends with Spurs
scoring two minutes later as Erik Lamela bundled home. The gate opened, the flood could commence and
sure enough, Jermain Defoe slotted home from a penalty.
In doing so, Defoe surpassed Martin Chivers’ European goal
exploits in a Spurs shirt. Chivers had
been the half-time guest. A jovial
figure, whose voice sounded like Roy Hodgson’s but without the speech
impediment, Chivers related how the WAGs (wives and girlfriends) dreamt of
trips to Madrid or Rome when Spurs won their UEFA Cup
semi-final. They had paid much attention
to the other side of the draw clearly, as Wolverhampton Wanderers won the other
semi-final to make it to the (two-legged) final. Chivers noted that few of the WAGs made the
trip to the Midlands. The pitchside presenter poorly juxtaposed his
own pitch for, after lauding Chivers as a guest, he then demanded that Chivers
record be broken in front of the man (who had graciously said in the course of
his interview that it would fall).
Returning to the football, two minutes after Defoe had
converted the penalty, Villas Boas substituted Gylffi Siggurdson, with an eye
on Sunday’s Premier League, wishing to keep the Icelander fresh. Youngster Harry Kane went on in Siggurdson’s
place. After all, at 2-0 the game had
been put to bed and these minutes would be useful game-time for Kane. Sheriff had other ideas to dozing off.
Just as a Spurs’ substitution has presaged one side to
score, so, maybe coincidentally, it prompted the other to break their duck. Two minutes after Kane neter the field of
play, Sheriff grabbed a goal back, Friedel parrying the first attempt but
failing to keep out the rebound.
For the next eight minutes the game was quite fluid. As the match entered the 80th minute
though, it seemed that Spurs decided to hold on to what they had. One moment, another substitute, Lewis Holtby,
hovered on wing, tarrying with the ball while four of his own white-shirted
compatriots loitering on the edge of the Sheriff penalty area. None looked like a making a dash forward but Holtby
didn’t fire it in either so they could not beat the offside trap of Sheriff’s
defensive line. A simple expedient would
have been for Holtby to sprint to the byline and cut it back, obviating the
offside rule (it is only activated when passed ahead) but the young man lacked
such guile.
And so it played out, with even Sheriff bizarrely displaying
a lack of urgency at the switching of players of their own (no. 90 for no.
99!). In the dying seconds, Sheriff had
a corner and the goalkeeper, as is traditional with a one-goal deficit, went up
but it was forlorn. Spurs held on to
remain top of their group.
Outside the stadium, they were selling ‘friendship’
scarves. I would have bought one but for
two reasons – (a) I had a lack of ready cash and I couldn’t espy any
chip-and-pin machines on the stalls; and (b) the word ‘Superspurs’ was
emblazoned on it, a sentiment with which I disagreed and made the scarf less
one of friendship and more one of looking down on the opposing team.
I wouldn’t say I’ll never make the effort to attend another
match that Sheriff plays in England
but my hunger is sated. I may have
wished for a memento or two of the night (the absence of loose change prevented
a programme purchase as well – I didn’t know where around the Lane there were
cash machines), but I have a Sheriff scarf already from my visit to
Transdniestr (I chose not to wear it on Thursday as that would be impolitic in
the home end) and the ticket for the night I’ll be retaining as a
keepsake. Most important of all though,
I that I can say, “I was there.”