I should
relate my two bona fide Olympic
experiences before they slip into a muddled miasma of recollection, cherished
details forever cast to the wind. The
London Olympics may not be an once-in-a-lifetime experience for myself but I’ll
never see them in the UK again before very old age.
The first
event I attended in person was towards the end of the festival, a late night
session on Thursday 9th for a semi-final of women’s basketball. Not the first event with which I would
associate myself in the normal course of things, but I was determined to see a
sport, if not in the Olympic Park, then close to it – the session was held in
the O2, temporarily renamed the North Greenwich Arena – and these tickets were
ones returned from national associations and corporate sponsors and released by
LOCOG just after midnight via the ticketing website. Naturally, given the clientele to whom they
had been awarded, these tickets were not cheap, but no matter; I wasn’t going
to pay astronomical prices but £125 seemed fair for a Category A seat and a
chance to say ‘I was there’. Steep, yes,
it was towards the upper range of my limit and I baulked at other events where
available tickets were £375 a pop.
I had no
idea who was in the game but it started at 9 p.m. and so I arrived at what
seemed a good time to collect my tickets at the box office at 8.10 p.m. After coming through airport security-style
checks, I searched for the end of the queue. And searched. And searched.
It appeared never-ending and I asked a volunteer to point me in the
right direction. The tail was near the
entrance but that was a false dawn. At
8.20 p.m., one of the volunteer captains told an old lady just in front of me,
who was queuing for ticket collection for an event the next day, that the line
would take an hour to an hour and a half to disperse from that point in it
(more were arriving behind me) and that she could wait if she wanted, but that
it was better to come back the next day; she departed. An Australian couple behind me were equally
miffed at the time to enter, comparing how smooth going to the football had
been a few days earlier. The woman had
her iPad and in the course of waiting, through striking up a bit of repartee, I
found out that Usain Bolt had won the 200m sprint, the first person ever to
defend it an Olympics. One of the
volunteers apologised and in a bit of banter with us said that at least it wasn’t
raining. A Spanish woman pleaded “don’t
say that, please,” fearing the tempting of fate. Edging closer to the box office, we could now
see that while there were ten booths, only seven of them were open! The queue would have been processed a lot
quicker had all ten been open. I would
gladly have forsaken apologies if that had been the case. Eventually, after my mini-Odyssey round the
contours around one side of the North Greenwich Arena, I got my tickets and I
got to my seat at 9.20 p.m., there were still others at least half an hour
behind me in the line.
The game had
opened up on the second quarter by then, with the French team ahead of the Russians
by seven points. It was a thorny
question of who to support. I didn’t
really want to back a team who was behind, but, for my own sense of self-worth,
I didn’t really want to be a glory-hunter either. I arrived on the method to support the next
team to score and as it happened that was the Russians.
My seat was well-upholstered and in a good position to
observe the action with the Russians getting to a point or two of their
opponents before the French peeled away again on a scoring run. In the time-outs and between each quarter,
there were numerous bouts of entertainment that those watching on TV might only
glimpse with the cameras focused on the teams or pundits. Dance
troupes were to the fore and, in one time-out, ingeniously, a group of sweepers
came to wipe the floor of marks and rubber with wide-rimmed dry mops, before
dropping their equipment and bursting into a routine. No-one expected that and it was
well-received. The ringside presenters
also had some fun, getting two dads to dance for a basketball, a kissing
session where a camera zoomed in on a couple in the audience and were exhorted
to kiss – some were more forthcoming than others – and generally interviewing
openly pro-French or pro-Russian fans – one Russian went absolutely crazy with
a flag and his lunatic dancing and waving held the camera and the screen for a
good minute and more.
During the third quarter, a couple joined myself and others
in the suite (it was never full). The
fast-paced nature of the game made it exciting but the French were just far too
strong for the Russians, running out 82-65 winners, to made it to their first
ever Olympic women’s basketball final.
The fourth quarter concluded at about 10.40 p.m. but I had paid on my
ticket to be there until 11 p.m. and so I took in the French celebrations, both
in the team (watching the captain have an interview with French TV among other
things) and the crowd, finally leaving at 10.55 p.m. with all bar one of the
French team in the dressing room. The
crush outside was immense but I darted in gaps to try and advance my position,
needing to get back to London Victoria by midnight. At one, some started walking along a narrow
ledge, after a distance forced to jump down because of two bobbies standing
sentry there. A French fan sang the
Marseillaise loudly at them, to which one policeman growled to another “They
weren’t doing that in 1940 when the Germans overran them.”
My second experience was on Saturday 11th at
Wembley stadium for the gold medal match between Brazil and Mexico. I had booked this ticket back in May 2011,
for the reasonable (given the occasion) sum of £65. I went to London Bridge first of all, to take
in the rings on Tower Bridge in person and then I got on the tube at Tower Hill
and finally exited at Wembley Park to get the full vista of walking down
Olympic way. There was no allowance for
stopping at all in the environs around the station, but despite the packed
numbers, I had come an hour and twenty minutes beforehand so as not to be
caught out again.
As I edged
closer to the ground, the Latin American spirit of carnivals became more
apparent with the wild outfits, one Brazilian fan in a gold-lame suit with
outsize green spectacles and Elvis hair was among many sui generis delights. The
ticketing was far more efficient than at the North Greenwich Arena – while roughly
a similar proportion of booths were open (75%), there were twenty booths in total,
meaning the 15 open ones never had to contend with a vertiginous queue. When the friendly box office man asked me for
some photo id, I was thrown and concerned I wouldn’t get in, but along with my
Visa cards and reciting certain information only I would know (such as ticket
reference and when I booked it), I did get my hands on this priceless ticket.
I was high
up (it was a Category D seat) but that just allowed me to absorb the vast panorama
of the stadium in my first ever visit to it since it was rebuilt. I nominally supported the Brazilians before a
ball had been kicked but I was happy to applaud a football fiesta. The Brazilians seemed more likely to show
flair and ambition, while I had no previous affinity for perennial
underachievers Mexico.
I would have
to say that there were more Brazilians in the crowd than Mexicans but there a
significant British presence too. The
boy of the father sitting next to me went and leaned over the balcony, coming
back to say that he had spotted David Beckham.
With the match underway, one happy Mexican near me went into Speedy
Gonzalez mode: “Vamos! Vamos! Arriba! Underley!” The fun was added to by spontaneous Mexican
waves (I say ‘spontaneous’ because the pitchside commentators tried to whip up
the crowd similarly at half-time) – surely some bias involved here? The Brazilian contingent were more than happy
to indulge in this fond crowd get-together from the World Cup in Mexico in
1986.
The Mexican
team wasted little time in letting their counterparts on the pitch that they
had no come along just to make up the numbers, scoring within the first minute,
Aribe Peralta curling it sweetly beyond the despairing Brazilian goalkeeper’s
grasp. Then they settled down to boss
the game. For half an hour the
Brazilians barely had a sniff (reminding me of The Simpsons’ satire of World
Cup ’94, with a staid final of Portugal against Mexico – the coincidence with
today that the Brazilians are Portuguese-speakers I found to my own personal
amusement), forcing the coach into a substitution after 31 minutes (always a
bad sign) to bring on Hulk. The
Brazilians had a few half-chances thereafter but the Mexican defensive
organisation was superb. They were also
helped by the Brazilian antipathy to crossing the ball into the box – many the
time a Brazilian player made it to the byline and then the phobia kicked in and
they were closed down by two defenders.
The Brazilian obsession with playing it through the middle was meat and drink
to the Mexicans.
The pattern
continued in the second half. Brazil continued
to screw balls wide of the net (the Mexican ‘keeper was barely tested in the 90
minutes). Mexico even had the ball in
the net, but though it was disallowed, it proved no wake-up call to the
Brazilians. On the 75th minute, Peralta
claimed his second, with a bullet header from a free-kick near the corner
flag. I was delighted for the Mexicans
because they truly deserved to win this match.
Peralta was taken off with four minutes of normal time remaining, much
to his obvious reluctance given that he still had the chance to score the
perfect hat-trick (left foot, right foot and header) yet the coach must have
wanted him to receive a fulsome ovation.
Hulk scored in injury-time, provoking a manic two minutes in the search
for an equaliser, but it was not to be.
Brazil had
the superstars – Neymar had some exquisite tricks, for example – but Mexico had
the team and were very impressive. The
medal ceremony involved the vanquishers of Team GB’s men’s football squad, with
South Korea (or as the announcer said “Korea, Republic of”) claiming a bronze
medal position. The podium was quite
massive to incorporate all three squads.
Despite the result, there a lot of bonhomie at the end, with the Mexican
fan I had mentioned earlier, being playful with three Brazilians a couple of
rows forward, even holding up a Brazil flag and chanting ‘Brasil’. The spirit of the Olympics one might
say. I stayed for the Mexico squad’s lap
of honour and waited until they had entirely left the pitch. I knew the crowds outside would be massive
whenever I left and I wanted to soak up as much of the experience as possible.