Sunday, October 01, 2006

Night on the town

So to continue with my China expedition. After surviving my first night on nutritional cereal bars, for my second night with jetlag cleared up, I went for a meal on the town. Going for a nearby (well, 15 mins walk) restaurant as suggested by Lonely Planet, I found the architecture and ambience pleasant and I got a window seat overlooking the street, though the scene was nondescript. One option from the illustarted menu was turtle soup with whole baby turtle floating on top, like a corpse dumped in the East River (they really should have weighted the feet), though I must confess I've never been to New York. Another was spewed cradmeat. Crab or crad, from the picture it certainly looked like something I might spew (or, then again, stew). I plumped for Spicy Fried Duck, a dish that when it arrived, left one in no doubt what you were eating, with the fried ornamental head still attached. For drinks, I was tempted by half a litre of Swell Fun, but became rapidly untempted by its prohibitive price and went instead for something forty times cheaper, namely 500ml of Tsingtao beer. I coped manfully with the chopsticks as I dissected my duck. However, with the serrated edge revolution bypassing chopstick development, I resisted looking rustic for as long as possible, but with a drumstick remaining sprawled on the plate, I eventually had to resort to my fingers.
After dinner, I went exploring the streets now it was night, to see how Beijing lives after dark falls , though the poorly-lit alleyways I decided to forgo. Mind you, it is an odd way to orienteer, to do it post-sundown, even with a Beijing map to hand. Passing a street display of trinket-sellers at the roadside, out of the corner of my eye was, I thought at first, was a small statue, but its rocking motion confounded that and on direct sight was an adorably cute three-year old, sitting squat on the pavement, wearing a gold-coloured vestment, with a metal railed barricade as protection from the road. A little further along were more toddlers mingling with their parents doing the hawking.
A nigh full moon shone over the moat of the Forbidden City, the former residence of the emperors, while a hundred strong dance class practised solo yet co-ordinated moves in the courtyard at the City's rear entrance to elegaic music. Take that, Falum Gong!
The inevitable Pekinese dogs were a delightful sight and though they weren't the only representative of their species, big dogs seemed to be in short supply; there was even a poodle as a guard dog for a shop. The only cat I saw was a sweet little ginger kitten looking for scraps in a restaurant garden, both on empty tables and off.

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